Samoa. 170,000 people spread over 4 small volcanic islands in the middle of the largest body of water on earth.

The future is happening here. It’s the beginning of the world each day and I am reaching tomorrow ahead of you. Yet somehow this place is more prehistoric than anywhere I’ve been before.

The small chain of islands that represents Western Samoa are slapped right at the beginning of time, in more than one context. It was recently decided by ‘those that can’ to scrap the 30th day of December 2010. Yes, it just failed to exist in 2010. I went to bed on the night of the 29th Dec 2010 and woke up feeling fresh on New Years Eve morning. For a 36 hour sleep I felt great. Sleep only comes to me in doses like that for a very specific, well practiced reason and I was counting on that for New Years Day.

Anyway, the reasoning behind this odd decree was to move Western Samoa into the same day as Australia for trading purposes. It essentially moved from being the last country in the world to see ‘the new day’, to the first. New Years was celebrated here before anywhere else on the entire planet. 70 miles away but a full 23 hours behind, the island of American Samoa quietly goes about its business.

There are waves here. For sure there are waves here. Some world class setups line these understated Southern Polynesian shores. Dense jungle, a lack of roads and far off reef passes are just the first obstacles in your path. The islands have a small yet well established surfing history, serviced by a handful of surf camps, resorts and surf tour operators. With the closest direct flights currently from Australia and New Zealand, Samoa is undergoing a shift in tourism from a once predominant American market.

Upolo and Savaii are the 2 main Islands in Samoa and are the most populated as well as being the most travelled. There are several camps and resorts that hold commanding positions at some of the more well known spots on the islands and with reef passes lining the coasts, a boat becomes a valuable commodity out here.

With the tsunami of 2009 leveling a large proportion of the southern coastlines, businesses are keen to get the tourist trade flowing again. Unfortunately the vibrant corals that used to thrive on the reefs out here have all but died. However with no shape lost, and a softer landing when you bounce, the waves are still pumping.

A popular misconception (and one I encounter regularly myself) upon embarking on a surf trip to a tropical locale is that the surf will be good more often than not. My advice to you for any trip is read the small print and do your research properly. If you want Indo style waves, go to Indonesia.

Surfing out here is a different ball game. Along side the difficult topography, surfing in Samoa is not only tough to achieve on a budget, but it also requires a myriad of variables coming together to score the epic conditions the islands can produce. After 2 1/2 months out here I can count the days of epic surf on one hand, with very little else in between. Swells materialize and dematerialize overnight, trade winds ravage groundswells and with no nearby buoys, accurate oceanographic data for this part of the world is hard to come by. Using typical internet forecasting sites will have you chewing your fingers off and making sacrifices you really don’t want to make. However with some solid research, a trained eye will pick up the swells that set right handers spitting their internals at you and lefts that grind down the reef like mini versions of Teahupoo.

In the right conditions there are a stack of waves here which turn world class. There are ledges that compete with some of the heaviest in the world but only come to life once every year or so, rights and lefts that throw up barrels that would get even the most jaded pro running for wax and sunscreen, and wedge like ramps that would be a prime feature in most of todays ‘new school’ surf vids.

So, if adventure floats your boat and you would rather create the track that becomes beaten, there is still plenty of discovering to be done out here. Just be sure to bring plenty of time and patience with you. If you do, the rewards are mind blowing and you will be sharing them with only the people you saw fit to bring with you.

So summer 2011 here is nearly on its way out. Was it long enough? Was it hot enough, Did it rain too much?

Yes and No for all of the above. This is the time of year, that people start thinking of where in the world they wish they were.

September is a pretty magical time of the year wherever you are. Actually Costa Rica is not great in September, big rainy season happens here then, this last until the end of October. Afer this time, Costa Rica is well and truly back open for business.

The water out in Costa Rica is unbelivably warm, the wild life and general lifestyle are like no where else.

If you haven’t been to Costa Rica and don’t have a winter escape planned? Time to stop talking and start planning.

Jeffreys Bay, South Africa is at the end of its swell season in September  and October. making them great months to get out there and surf some incredible waves without the crowds. Non-surfing partners are always happy in South Africa, bungee jumps, safaris, township tours all add to the general vibe of the place.

Kitesurfers might like to grab a late season bargain in Sardinia or Tarifa. Having said this I have scored some killer sessions here in the UK this summer, Camber Sands on the South Coast is new spot for me and with hundreds of kites in the air, it really is worth a visit.

Planning a few months ahead, brings Kenya right into season – how about Christmas and New Year kitesurfing in Kenya

Get in touch with one of our Travel Experts today.

Surfing in Fiji Day 1

Fiji is well known by those in the know for its truly world class surf. It is no exaggeration to say that Fiji is without question a dream destination for surfers.

Heading out by boat to surf one of the best waves in the world, is without doubt the highlight of my surfing life. With crystal clear waves, beautiful reef and needless to say flawless waves, I was in heaven.

With the alarm set for  6.00am, I was wide awake at 4.00. Today is the day!! Having seen so many mouth watering videos of the famous waves of Fiji with the thought of one day being out there to ride them myself as a distant dream, the reality of being there prepping my gear for the day indescribably exciting.

My entire body felt alive with anticipation. As perfect as the waves in Fiji are, they are also waves of consequence often breaking over only a few feet of water and onto razor sharp coral. Like all good things, the wave of your life comes at a price.

Pacing out to look at the ocean and the island of Tavarua in the distance, it was finally time. We loaded the boat, Ian as the captain had an excited glint in his eye. “The waves are gonna be pumpin bro” he told me and the rest of the crew.

The sun was up and the winds were light making for a smooth 25 minute boat ride out there. Cloudbreak gets is name from the fact that the wave breaks with such force that from a distance it looks like a cloud on the horizon, another reason I heard as I headed on the boat was that the name Cloudbreak comes from the furiousity of the waves hitting the reef making the sound of distant thunder clouds.

As we approached Cloudbreak, with the intention of looking not surfing as it was a solid 10-12 ft it was a magnificent site. Both the cloud and thunder analogies were spot on. A couple of the guys on the boat suggested jumping in to catch a few before heading over to some of the other waves that would be handling the swell better.

Experience has taught me, not to rush into a potentially life threatening situation with a completely “gung ho” psyche. I stayed back and watched for a while. Watching monster barrels rifle down the reef, wide enough to drive our boat through was unreal..! This was live, “I am hear and watching this live,” I felt I had to remind myself.

Ian and his crew act as a water patrol and the asking for the neck brace to be located and put next to a pro looking medical pack confirmed that we were indeed surfing waves of consequence, ie waves that will teach you more than a lesson, they will really hurt you if you get it wrong.

Watching the sets roll in I began to assess it. 30 mins later I was in there, amongst it, using all my ocean sense and understanding to keep me safe and on the right side of the fine line between exhilarating action and genuine danger.

A couple of smaller (8ft) sets rolled in taking me in the pack closer to the inside. These were soon followed by the bigger 10-12ft sets.

I should reference that I make my reference to size of the surf from the locals and Hawaiians on my boat that were used to charging these waves and so cannot be found at fault of an over estimation. Either way these waves were awesome, powerful and humbling.

With a big set arriving I hyper-paddled for the outside, this was big and scary, very scary, this was surfing on another level. Duck under the lip of a wave of this power, menace and beauty was intense,  amazing and scary and all at the same time. Before I could think about that I had two more wide ones to dodge first.

Having made it to the outside, I took my eye off the horizon for a split second and glanced back to the boat to see the other getting back on. I headed over to join them. Sitting on the boat I had mixed feelings. What I had just experienced was incredible, however I knew I hadn’t ridden one. Was I about to be the guy that went Cloudbreak and did catch a wave? A worrying thought.

Heading over to some of the other wave options we found ourselves at Wilkes, a solid right hander, breaking at a solid 8ft. This time I jumped straight in. paddling next to me were 2  Aussies. As we paddle to the top we got chatting, we were all amping and thought of catching a dream wave.

All of a sudden a much bigger wide side swung in, there was no escaping this one. Aussie 1 ditched his board and dived under prompting me and Aussie 2 to do the same.  Getting hit by this wave felt like getting his by a car and the expression of a washing machine takes a new meaning in Fiji. These waves were on steroids.

Aussie 1 came up with half a board, Aussie 2 came up with no board and luckily for me I have been spared. Two more rolled in and the humbling continued. Next thing we knew was that we had been washed into a rip that was pulling us out behind the reef to treat us to a 40 minute paddle or half paddle for Aussie 1, and a giant swim for Aussie 2.

Throughout this time, I was acutely aware of not having caught a wave and these humblings were not helping the necessary charge necessary  to encourage you to push yourself over the ledge of one of these waves.

The clean up set had got everyone, making Ian’s job of picking us up once we made it to the outside a skilled task.

Round 3 took us over to Namotu Left (a solid 6ft) these waves we breaking perfectly. A swig of water, a retouch of sunscreen that I was sure would have been punched off me by the force of the waves and various draggings along the reef, and I was back out there feeling like a determined boxer, still managing to smile at the thought of  catching the wave of my life!!

Having ducked 12ft, 6ft (which is still a good and chunky 12ft on the face) suddenly felt manageable.

3 hours later I had just enjoyed one of the most memorable sessions of my life. From raw South Pacific power we had honed in on South Pacific perfection. Solid, clean 100 metre long walls. An unforgettable session that whilst not completely incident free with regular inside teachings, also included some incredible rides. This was surfing as surfing was intended!!

Surfing Fiji Day 2

Heading back out to the outer surf islands of Tavarua and Namotu on day 2, I felt empowered by the lessons learned and experience gained from day 1. So much of surfing is about experience and day 1 had given me enough experience of what to expect out there to be super excited by both the challenge and fortunate opportunity  to be back out there.

Spending the evening at Ian’s house talking endlessly about the waves and surfing in Fiji was inspiring to say the least, it also served as a welcome reminder of the special junction I was currently at in my surfing life, this was a new frontier, and the feeling of finding something new in surfing was as exciting as it gets.

As we reached the waves, we headed straight for Restaurants (aptly named as it breaks right in front of the restaurant on Tavarua. The swell has to wrap the island to hit the reef that Restaurants breaks on. The waves at Restaurants were head high and perfect, running flawlessly and seemingly forever along the colourful reef.

No wind and only the reef pass to perfectly shape the waves, gave rise to some of the most magical carpet ride waves I have ever known.

After puddling in and popping to your feet, you have 2 options, stall for a cover up pocket barrel or push hard off the bottom and thump it, top to bottom again and again and again, pocket ride, and then again and again.  Unbelievable!!! Having been lucky enough to have surfed a number of world class waves, the wave a Restaurants, takes some beating!! We surfed here for 2 hours and I loved every second!!

The dropping of the swell, put the option of Cloudbreak back on the radar. Hopping back onboard the boat, there was an excited buzz, a dream session had just been played out, not in our imaginations, but in reality!!

Cloudbreak was breaking at 6ft with the occasional 8ft bomb to keep us honest.

The take off at Cloudbreak is more forgiving than the wave itself. Popping to your feet early is the key giving you time to pick your line and surf hard. As I swung into a bottom turn and onto the face, the power under my feet was truly  incredible. I felt like I could feel every inch of the 6’6 pintail under my feet and that it would do exactly what I asked it to do at a moments notice. Out on the face,  there seemed to be two options again, try for the barrel  of your life or flick off the back into safety. The fact that on my first wave I even thought about it left me with no option, I punched through the back scrambled to the surface hoping to be spared the indignity of passing up on a barrel and getting slammed anyway by what was now a ferocious beast of wave unloading onto the low tide reef.

With only 6 other surfers out,  and all of us taking it turns to  pick off the perfect waves coming our way, getting waves was not a problem and the next bomb might just have your name on ot!!

After a couple of waves , my confidence was up and as I rounded the bottom turn and found the face, I dared to stall the board, with no need to duck the curtain came over. I am in!!! The power and the noise was like no other barrel that had always previously been  necessary to crouch in. This pacific ocean cavern gave you room to stand and travelling as fast as ever my first solid barrel in Fiji was a special one. To avoid ending this euphoric moment  splattered on the reef, I floored it onto my front foot and whizzed over the back totally out of control and into the air. As I came down flat on my back, it was a first wave moment all over again! I had just successfully ridden the barrel at Cloudbreak!!! A moment and feeling in my surfing life I will never forget.

2 hours later and with a bag full of barrels of varying style and sporadic success under my belt, I was literally playing out a dream. So often the opportunity to ride a proper barrel is passed up by a natural instinct to stay on the safe side, and as I said, evening thinking about it often leaves you in disaster. This time everything came together and clicked perfectly into place.

Before sitting down to write this, I questioned the relevance of what will be a treasured personal memory for the rest of my days. Harping on about barrels is often dodgy ground often read/listened to with dash jealousy, a sprinkling of disbelief and a peppering of hatred for the person telling you how “sick their barrel was.” However, the fact that  I was out in Fij on research for the development of the Ticket to Ride Groups makes reference to this sort of stuff highly relevant and besides, these were real barrels, ones that spit and everything!!

And as I write this from the plane heading back South Korea and then onto London and undoubtedly down to Cornwall sometime soon, I sit here with the warm feeling that Fiji has got to be Ticket to Ride’s new frontier.

I for one cant wait to get back out there!!!!

Thanks for reading!

Will

p.s apologies for going on so long – writing this down is the first time I have let it all go!

I left the UK on Monday evening, bound for Fiji (yes Fiji).  My 23 hour journey required a 4 hour wait in South Korea before heading down to tropical paradise.

Now, it was a welcome surprise to find the Seoul Airport has won best airport in the world for the past 6 years, and let me tell you from experience (a little too much experience) that it is obvious to see why.

Anyway, to cut a long story short. Here is what happened, without realising it at the time, I managed to set my watch an hour slow upon arrival in Seoul. After completing my customary airport gander at the latest electronic gadgets, I followed sign to the relaxation area, away from the hubub of the shops and other zombified travellers.

If you are not one for a missed plane story… skip this bit and go straight to my trip to Seoul…

Free wireless internet was a bonus, so I plugged in and got tapping away on the new websites that we are developing which included our new addition to the Ticket to Ride Group – Basecamp Ski and Snowboard (new site coming soon).

Anyway, as the hours passed by and I happily tapped away, occassionally ordering the odd iced coffee, from my lazy boy chair (hard to believe, but it the small things like this, that are everywhere in this place).

3 houts later and with my flight scheduled to depart in 1 hours time, I decided to head down to the gate and rejoin the group I am/was and hopefully will be travelling again with soon . As I approached the desk with what I thought was time on my side, I casually asked whether I was too early to board, the look on the attendant’s face, alerted my attention to the plane pulling away from the stand.

“The plane has left early.” I protested in repsonse to the attendants unsympathetic remarks to the tune of “we waited as long as we could and “we were calling for you.” I eventually realised that the time on my watch was not the same as every other clock in the airport (that I had so successfully removed myself from hours earlier).

Annoyance went to anger, and then realisation went to solutions. “when is the next flight?” I asked. “2 Days time” they replied.

A sheepish phone call to tourism Fiji, a cold beer (that felt warm) at the bar and I was feeling low. The worst kind of low where there is no-one other than yourself to blame. I avoided mirrors, to save an angry conversation with myself which I feared might scare other travellers. Anyway there was work to be done. Where is my bag? Where shall I stay? and how do you leave a departure lounge when you don’t have the option of getting on a plane?

Having missed the flight at 19.30, it quite quickly became 11.oopm and the airport was shutting. I located my bag, I headed out into arrivals. I asked a policeman for the nearest hotel that he could recommend, he didn’t understand me and on my fourth time of asking placed his hand on his gun. Nice!

Eventually I found a hotel and met a taxi man who promised to take me straight there. Winding away from the airport I realised that there is a lot of trust in a passenger, taxi driver relationship.

Thankfully, the taxi man stuck to his task and delivered me to my hotel. The realisation that this was home and I should be landing in paradise at that moment, made it hard to sleep. I saw 5.30am before finally getting to sleep, which in part must have been jet lag.

My journey into Seoul City (welcome back)

Awaking at 2.00pm was a novelty, however the fact that I never planned to be in Korea, made ignoring the local time zone, a fitting protest.

First task, get booked onto the next flight to Fiji. As soon as this had happened, my mood lifted. And my eyes began to open to the fact that I had never been to an Asian megacity. Seoul is home to over 10 million people, it has hosted the FIFA World Cup 2002 and was undoubtedly a city on the move.

I headed down to their city link. A futuristic place if ever i had seen one. By now i really had a sense of stepping into the future. Especially when heading over to the coffee shop to realise that I has never seen food like this, so much so that I found myself rattling it, sniffing it and at one point even putting my ear to it (jet lag). Primitive stuff, however this really is another world. Never one to eat something that could well have been plastic, I spotted a snicker bar and headed for the train.

I read somewhere of the Korean obsession with everything being new. This is certainly true and quite incredible.

Arriving in “down town Seoul” I got my map at and took a picture with my phone. This was my first smile with myself, since the missing a flight incident. Walking around, with  camera and a map is something I marvel at whenever I see groups of Koreans in London.

My guidebook suggested heading to a market – I hate shopping but went anyway. It was bustling and whilst still not my thing, I am glad I experienced it.

Next on my agenda was an ancient site, the 14th Century Deoksugung Palace. And this is where my title comes from, Seoul has manged to blend its love for ultra modern with its respect for its ancient history and culture. This is surely the aim of all town planners, however I have never seen it executed with such precision and success.

Having woken at 2.00pm, the day was slipping away, I headed into the restaurant that looked least likely to poison me and ordered some sushi. I wondered if the rumours that they eat dog here are true and then realised that when Koreans visit the west they must think that we do too. “Hot Dog sir? ”

In high spirits, having sucessfuly visited my first Asian mega city, I reboarded the super train and headed back to the airport as my hotel was in its close proximity.

It is no secret that Asia is on the move, however only having been here can I now understand and appreciate this. Korea is like stepping into the future, although Koreans don’t speak much English, they come across as very friendly people, they know what they are doing and they seem happy with the world they are literally building around themselves.

As I type this, from the airport lounge (avoiding those lazy boys – for good luck). I am overjoyed to be heading to Fiji, however secretly pleased to have called into South Korea and the city of Seoul.

Maybe next time, I will set my watch right and step into the timezone.

Linley Lewis (Co Founder of Ticket to Ride World Wide Surfing Adventures) and now Wife Kiriana are in this months issue of COMPANY Magazine.

Kiri talks about her experiences on their Honeymoon too Kenya, Zanzibar, and Tanzania. With Kite Surfing, Snorkeling, Safari and Romantic dinners on the Beach it sounds like they had an incredible Trip!!

photo courtesy of heidi palmboom

As is now customary for this time of year, I am out in Durban to oversee the end of our main surf adventure course season in South Africa before they head off up to Mozambique.

Late March is just about my favourite time to be in South Africa, especially Durban. Having braved a few surfs down at the Ticket to Ride Surf School in Perranporth this winter, requiring no less than a full wetsuit with all the extras, it is an absolute joy to be out here surfing every day in 27 degree water in just board shorts.

As usual the period between Christmas and Easter is always a busy one here at Ticket to Ride, add in freezing winter temperatures and 2 weeks of surfing in sub-tropical Durban, South Africa, cannot come soon enough.

Last year I was a little unlucky on the surf side out here, and if I remember rightly, it was only when I headed up to Mozambique that the sun really began to shine. This year is another story, we have had great waves almost every day capped with clear blue skies. Heaven!!!

I love the surf out here, sand bottom waves with plenty of power offering leg achingly long rides.

On the Ticket to Ride Surf Adventure side, our team of trip leaders have delivered a fantastic season, this really sets us up  for future seasons with so many current riders deciding to join courses having chatted to past riders. The 2011 season has been full of brothers and sisters of riders from previous ticket to ride surf adventures, something we always envisaged and worked hard on the course delivery side to achieve.

From a travelling perspective, leaving winter behind and heading to the beach for 2 weeks of surf surf  and more surf has been fantastic.

Like everyone, in the days leading up to taking time off, I often wonder if it is really necessary? Is it feasible? Will things get done whilst I am away? The reality is always the same, taking time out gives you crucial perspective on what really matters in life,  whenever your head is at the grindstone, you undoubtedly miss the bigger picture and over focus on the smaller details.

For so many people, a sport such as surfing, is more than just a sport or a past time, it is a genuine escape, with the unique ability of leaving you exhausted and completely refreshed all at the same time.

So if you are reading this, and are looking to find some perspective for yourself.  My firm belief is that a little sun, sea and surf is a proven prescription that will take some beating.!!

So many ideas for Ticket to Ride Travel itineraries come from the travel team’s development running one of the world’s leading surf tour operations.

Whilst the emphasis is slightly different ie focused on a younger crowd, some of the key attributes to a successful travelling experience are exactly the same.

Enjoy…!

Ticket to Ride Surf Adventure News

There is some fun looking summer swell on its way down to Jeffreys Bay – Ticket to Ride Surf Adventure groups have timed it to perfection and are already down there.

The swell looks set to hit this weekend and will be around all week!! If the main wave of Jeffreys – the hallowed Supertubes is not working properly, one of my favourite waves in the area is the seal point, running alongside the light house in St Francis.

In terms of where to stay, we always recommend African Perfection they have the 3 types of accommodation in prime location. My personal favourite is the self catering options in their Beach House

So if you are feeling spontaneous, give us a call and get on down!!!

Make and Enquiry about J-bay

Useful links

J Bay Surf  Report

South African Airways

As always there is so much to see and do out there! staying out there with Tim – head of the Ticket to Ride Foundation really made it feel like a home from home.

Anyway having been away for the best part of 2 months sitting in the African sunshine, I now find myself with lots to catch up with.

So in short, if you have never been to Cape Town, you really should and if you want to know more just let me know!!!

Ticket to Ride Cape Town

Linley